Exploring the diversity of Dakar

Where to eat, where to stay, where to shop, what to visit – our correspondents advise.

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Image : Jana / Adobe Stock

Dakar is a bustling and vibrant metropolis. Being at the westernmost point of Africa, the city is blessed with a warm ocean-influenced climate that remains pleasant throughout the year, This makes it a perfect destination for tourists seeking sun, sand, and sea. Apart from its natural beauty, Dakar is also becoming a hub for digital nomads. 

With a fast-growing economy and a supportive community of tech startups (see “Senegal’s tech sector grows rapidly…”), the city has become an attractive destination for remote workers who crave the perfect balance between work and play. 

Galleries, shops and markets

If you’re looking for artefacts, visit the Village artisanal du  Marché Soumbedioune, where you will find a diverse range of artisanal goods. It’s our favourite market, more authentic and sophisticated than the others in Dakar.  

Dakar’s art scene is not limited to its markets, however. The city, which last December hosted Chanel’s renowned Metiers d’ Arts event that focuses on craftmanship, is also home to a thriving gallery scene, with notable names such as Galerie Cécile Fakhoury, which was the first to display the work of Senegalese artist Cheikh Ndiaye. Other important galleries include Oh Gallery and Selebe Yoon – which means “the crossroad” and which has organised many artist residencies – showcasing the best of contemporary African art. From sculptures and paintings to mixed media installations, Dakar’s art galleries offer a kaleidoscope of artistic expression that is not to be missed.

If you feel like a bit of shopping, try Sandaga. Run by a charming and dynamic Senegalese lady, you’ll find some unique fashion pieces there.  F-Koncept, a mix between a clothing concept store and coffee-shop, located not far from the beautiful Cathédrale de Notre-Dame des Victoires (“Cathedral of Our Lady of Victories”) also comes recommended.

Find the city’s best designers

Dakar has established itself as a centre for African architectural thinking, and there are many studios worth visiting. One such studio is Studio Quatorzerohuit, led by designers Bibi Seck and Omar Sow – brother of Senegalese business tycoon Yérim Sow. The studio boasts a modern design gallery which showcases furniture, as well as an incredible shop. 

Raw Material Company is a cultural centre and intellectural hub and hosts residencies and numerous classes, overseen by renowned artistic director Koyo Kouoh. Weaving Art Objects (or WAO), led by the pioneer in Senegalese textiles Aïssa Dione, offers a glimpse of Senegalese furniture and textile designs. The concept store is a must-visit for those interested in exploring the beautiful hand-craft work of Dione. The French Institute is also worth a visit. A haven of peace, it has a small restaurant, hosts numerous events and has a shop where you can buy vinyl records – look hard enough and you’ll find real collectors’ items.

Enjoy lunch by the sea

Senegal, unsurprisingly, is known for its fish. Le Lagon 1, a Dakar institution situated in the Plateau district is a great spot for seafood lovers. As you meander through its kitsch décor, look out for the plaques of all the famous guests who have dined there. For a breathtaking view and sumptuous food you must try Oceanium – which is known for its diving centre. 

For those who prefer a more authentic experience, le Bazoff is the perfect place to enjoy typical African cuisine, with great dishes from Senegal and West and Central Africa. 

Escape to the Gorée and Ngor Islands

Dakar can sometimes be overwhelming with its crowded streets and busy markets, especially on weekdays when, as in many capitals, peak-time traffic can be brutal. But two nearby islands, Gorée Island and Ngor Island, offer a perfect escape for an afternoon. Gorée Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Centre, is an emotional journey with its famous Maison des Esclaves (“House of Slaves”), which serves as a museum and memorial to the victims of the Atlantic slave trade. Visitors can explore the grim slave-quarters and elegant houses of the slave traders, while the “Door of No Return” serves as a reminder of human exploitation and a sanctuary for reconciliation. 

Meanwhile, Ngor Island is a small yet beautiful island, steeped in culture, with ornate doors and intricate mosaic work on the houses and narrow alleys lined with beautiful trees and flowers. It is also one of the best spots in Dakar to go diving or try out surfing.

Celebrating African heritage

Dakar is a city steeped in history and culture, and its museums are the perfect place to explore the region’s diverse heritage. The ThéodoreMonod Museum boasts an impressive collection of West African artefacts, ranging from ancient weapons and musical instruments to sprawling tapestries and intricate carvings. 

The Museum of Black Civilisations is another must-see museum in Dakar. Its well-curated exhibits include displays of anthropological, socio-cultural, and fine arts, showcasing the richness and complexity of African culture. 

Senegal has always been committed to preserving and sharing Africa’s cultural heritage with the world.

Downtime

Dakar has plenty of spots where you can unwind with a refreshing drink and stunning views. 

Le Phare, aptly named for its proximity to the lighthouse, offers the perfect spot to catch the sunset. The live music on weekends adds to the already enchanting ambiance. 

For wine enthusiasts, La Cave is a must-visit. Boasting the city’s best wine and champagne collection, this cosy bar is mostly frequented by locals. Looking for a chic and sophisticated dinner setting? Beluga is the place to be right now. Note that you will need to book a table in advance.

Another institution is La Fourchette. Its elegant decor and top-notch cuisine make it a great choice for an evening out. 

For a more informal setting, La Mer à Table offers a picturesque waterfront view perfect for sundowners. On Sunday afternoons, there is generally live music including iconic bands such as Orchestra Baobab.

Where to stay

Dakar offers a variety of accommodation options, from grand five-star hotels to intimate boutique lodgings. One such is the charming boutique hotel le Djollof, an oasis in the heart of the city. Its rooftop terrace, which offers sweeping views of the sea, a perfect spot to enjoy breakfast. 

There are three major 5-star hotels in the capital. The Pullman Teranga, situated in the heart of the business district, has great views of the Dakar Bay. There is the Terrou-bi which has got fantastic facilities, as well as the Radisson Blu

Others, more affordable but well-located and pleasant, are the Ibis and Novotel, both part of the Accor group.

 For a unique and tranquil experience, the Nyéléni Maison Sahel is a must-visit. This stunningly-decorated house is filled with art and surrounded by a peaceful garden where guests can enjoy a copious breakfast. 

Quick escapes and further afield

If you want to get out of Dakar, an hour’s drive away, just past Popenguine, is a fantastic beachfront restaurant, Echocotier, very popular with the Dakarois

Further out, four or five hours’ drive away to the north is the stunning city of Saint Louis, historically and culturally rich and home to one of the best universities in West Africa. You do need two days in Saint Louis to really get the best out of it.

Siné Saloum, south of Dakar (and a little north of The Gambia) has a host of eco-lodges on a mangrove – a paradise for those into activities around nature. 

Touba, inland, is a very important city and the religious capital of the country. It has beautiful mosques, but not all are open to the public.

Read more about Senegal’s booming economy in our Senegal Dossier.

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